Getting Soaked in Essaouira

The wind howls through the building. The palm trees bend like they might break. Waves dash up the beach, almost reaching the wall along the ocean walk; further out to sea, spray shoots high as huge swells crash onto the offshore rocks. Seagulls hover, nearly stationary, then gracefully swoop as they ride the 30-mph winds. Sheets of rain move through, and buildings only a block away are obscured by the blowing mist.

We’re dry and secure in our cozy modern apartment, with a third (or fourth?) floor view of the confusion outside. Another pot of tea, perhaps? A good day to work on the blog…

Today marks our 11^th day in Essaouira. What have we been up to? Well, first let’s clear up a small mystery.

            Why Camels?

A more exact title might be, Why Camels are Seen Walking Through Essaouira, but that begins to sound like an article in the journal Nature, or something. (National Geographic?)

It started with Diane, a British woman we met, an expat who’s been here for 15 years or so. We met with her in a café just outside the medina walls, and over a pot of tea and learned that she organizes nature walks, every week, on Thursday. So, we made arrangements to join them in the upcoming walk.

This walk was along the beach, and started from a beach café about a kilometer (0.6 mile) from our flat. We arrived a bit early, with the idea of getting lunch before walking. This café, and a couple more nearby, marked the end of the town’s beachfront; further down, it was just ocean waves and sand dunes as far as the eye could see.

Looking back towards Essaouria

Paula relaxing after lunch

Since this was the edge of civilization as far as beach activities were concerned, several businesses competed for the last bit of space. In addition to the cafés there was a surf shop (of course!): both board and kite surfing are popular here. And a place to rent “quads,” small four-wheel drive all-terrain vehicles, and horses, and camels. Yes, dromedaries (the one-humped variety; the two-humpers are found in Asia).

Both are quads, in a sense -- one goes long distances without a fill up, the other requires refueling regularly

Hard to believe we are hundreds of km from the desert!

Perhaps this is the fellow we saw last week, making his way to the beach to offer camel rides

So that explains why we saw that fellow walking his two camels along the road last week. He was heading towards the beach, where he no doubt expected to find some clients for a camel ride. (One of the members of our hiking group later remarked that a camel costs around 30,000 Dirham, or about $3,000USD, which is why the owners are so pushy to get clients for camel rides!)

With that issue cleared up, and lunch over, we were ready for the day’s hike.

This may be a pushmi-pullyu (from The Story of Dr. Dolittle, Hugh Lofting's 1920 children's novel about a man who talks to animals), but is more likely two camels

Although it was a gray day, the weather gearing up for today’s rainstorm, walking and talking to the other hikers was pleasant. Most of the folks on the walk were long-term British residents of the area. We got some insights into the region, and it’s endlessly interesting hearing people’s stories of why they left home and what drew them to a foreign land. The return walk was marred somewhat by quads (the four-wheel ATVs) zooming up and down the beach, driven by joyful vacationers more captivated with thrills than safety (their thrills, our safety!).

We also saw some other, slowly-moving “quads,” the kind with four legs and a hump. The camels were picturesque on the sand, especially with the waves behind them.

Lawrence of Essaouira!

            So where are we, anyway?

Can you find Morocco on a map? Bet you can’t find Essaouira! To help out, here’s an overview.

Morocco. Yellow star south of Gibraltar marks Fez, our next stop; red marker is Essaouira

Essaouira. Red marker is our apartment, a few blocks from the medina and almost on the beach

            Views of Essaouira

This trip to Essouira is the second time we have been here; indeed, impressions from our first trip three years ago is what drove us to return. There have been changes: the city is growing, spreading north and south. Heavy equipment works day after day expanding and modernizing the port; sidewalks are torn up to lay new paving stones.

The old port, though, has stayed the same. Workers hurry to and fro, fishermen work on their boats, vendors sit with an array of fish on display. And crowds surge through it all. Plenty of tourists and sightseers, but lots of locals as well. It's a busy scene at the harbor!

Part of the old fortifications, and part of the fishing fleet

Entrance to the town from the port

The classic "Essaouira hole"

Crowds surge through the port

A man prepares to sell the days catch

More crowds surging

More fish for sale (note, no ice! buy it quick...)

But inside the medina, though, it’s the same as it’s ever been: main streets lined with shops selling the stuff of daily life – incredible produce, wonderful bread, tiny stores crammed with dish soap and yoghurt and eggs with the straw still sticking to them – along with everything the unsuspecting tourist could want. Clothing, both traditinal and modern; carved and inlaid boxes; leather goods; colorful weavings; brass and metal ware, spices...

 

Gateway to the old city

The ancient city of Essaouira. And seagulls.

One of many, many "hidden passages"

Tangerines! Tangerines today!

            Major Storm Hits Essaouira!

Yes, Saturday was bad, Sunday was worse. Wind gusts to 60 MPH, blowing rain so thick we could see nothing out our window; angry brown seas. Sometime in the early afternoon we headed out for a walk. Just after stepping out the door of our building a board came flying from above to land in the street, well away from us but just in front of a car. The driver stopped, and shook his head, waved his arms at us in amazement. What next!? he seemed to be saying.

What next indeed! We looked at the litter-filled street in front of us, and Paula decided the risk outweighed the reward on this venture. She headed back to the safety and excellent view from the apartment. The heavy weather lasted for hours, and while we were fine, the streets were littered with broken branches. Our only causality was the Internet satellite dish on the roof, which stopped working. Two days with no Wi-Fi! The building manager acted quickly, though, and by Tuesday morning everything was up and running. (But this blog entry did get delayed!)

The peak of the storm, blowing rain obscures the view

Two hours later, still storming but much calmer!

View from our balcony. It was awesome!

Next up: more on the medina; in 10 days we leave this seaside town for the big city of Fez!