Music on Montmartre

Paris Blog – 23 November 2015

We just got in from a little shopping trip in our neighborhood. It’s about 5:30, and the streets are full of cars, and people returning home from work. Not the best time to go shopping, we realize, as the small market where we shop is also full of people, stressed from their day of work and eager to get home.

We were hoping to find that fine produce market we stumbled upon the other night, but it seems to be closed today, Monday. The neighboring rotisserie shop, where we got an excellent chicken, is also closed. Yup, Monday, traditional day of shop closures in France. But that’s ok, the mini-super mart is open (“mini-super”?)

Then we stopped at “our” boulangerie, right on the corner, a half-block down. They recognize us there now, so we always get a welcoming “Bonjour” when we arrive. (And tonight the lady reminded me not to forget the baguette, like I did last night…)

The weather has turned colder, but the sun was shining and it was another gorgeous day in Paris. We walked up to Sacre Coeur (formal name: La Basilique du Sacré Cœur de Montmartre), a little over a mile away. Lots going on up there, as there always is. A harpist was playing on the steps to an appreciative crowd sitting and wandering around. There was a bit of a haze over the City, but the view was still pretty good. And of course, the white dome of the Basilica towered over it all.

Some young Brits with a couple of very expensive cameras were filming; they told me there were shooting a video for a band, the members of which were hanging dangerously off the railing. (We later saw them charging around Montmartre, with video crew in tow).

And, as in many places around Paris these days, soldiers in camouflage fatigues with dangerous-looking automatic weapons were moving around slowly, keeping an eye on things. (While I am deeply disturbed by the reason for their presence, I’m actually glad to see them). I have no fear of another terrorist attack, but I figured at least this will keep the pickpockets at bay – that made me feel more secure!

There was a real musical treat awaiting us up next to the Basilica, a couple of fellows with a guitar and beat box -- Presteej, I believe they call themselves -- entertaining the crowd and selling CDs. Boy, they were good!

We listened for a bit, found out they are from Paris, and this is their spot; I asked, this must be your studio, huh? And he said, yes, studio, office, everything. Right there at Sacre Coeur. They were quite good, and the crowd was very appreciative.

Paula and I went into the church – after all, we came all that way – and it was remarkable (although it can’t hold a votive candle to Chartres!). We soon moved on, however, because there is much more to Montmartre than the Basilica.

After our long walk, eating was high on our list. Crowds were thin as we walked the streets, it being winter and all. And, restaurants were closed, it being Monday. But thanks to a tip from a guy at a mini-mart, we found an Italian restaurant. Real Neapolitan pizza and a glass of wine, what more could one want for lunch? (There was an item on the menu called Indianapolis – chef’s surprise. The patron explained he is from Naples, and his partner is from India, hence, Indianapolis. Wow! Then he wanted to know if we were from Indianapolis…)

Pomodoro Restaurant, Rue de la Vieuxville, Montmartre

After a great lunch and a great connection, we wandered on down to Pigalle, a very crowed tourist area. But it was on our way home, and the sun was low and the temperature dropping, so we hurried along past the sex shops and guys loitering on the street corners offering to sell us iPhones and Marlboros.

Soon enough we were walking the familiar streets of our own ‘hood”, unlocking the front door of our building, and climbing the steps to our own warm Parisian apartment. 

Home sweet home!

After a bit of a rest, we made a quick trip out to get some supplies for dinner, and settled in for the night.