Back in Sevilla -- And a Visit to Córdoba

 Yes, we’re back! And very glad to be here!

We enjoyed our time in Alicante, but for me, something just wasn’t right. We had a great apartment with a wonderful view; the ocean was right there with the castle off to the side. We had our favorite restaurants, and knew several other Americans there. We enjoyed using our tram cards to explore the coast north of town. But still, Alicante was missing something.

Now that we’re back, it’s as I suspected. While Alicante had its origins with the Romans and the Moors, it is essentially a recent city. I expect in the ‘50s & ‘60s there wasn’t much there; most of the town seems to have been built in the boom days of the ‘70s and ‘80s, when they just couldn’t build beachfront apartments fast enough. 

Sevilla, on the other hand, was a Moorish capital in the 11^th Century. After the discovery of the New World, all the riches Spain took (read: extorted) passed through Sevilla. The galleons carrying tons of gold and silver – and tobacco – came up the Guadalquivir River (it’s silted up now,  but was navigable then) and were off-loaded here. Madrid was the capital of Spain, then as now, and all the good stuff was shipped on. But no doubt there were plenty of “middle men,” packers, shippers, and tax collectors. Sevilla became very very rich. In the 16^th Century it was a powerful, beautiful, elegant city. It may be less powerful today, but it is no less elegant or beautiful!

A rather nice modern building in Sevilla

And since we’ve been here before –we spent three months around the Christmas holidays here in 2016 – it’s all familiar. We know our way around. No mean feat, that, since the roads are short, narrow, and winding. A real maze. (I didn’t want to go out alone for the first month we were here for fear I’d never find my way back!) But now we wander the cobbled streets in confidence, admiring the buildings (and discovering some new, really exquisite ones).

Córdoba

Somehow we missed getting to this ancient city last time around, so this time we made it a point to visit it sooner rather than later. It’s a pretty city, with the usual narrow, winding cobbled streets. But we’ve got those here in Sevilla, and more and better of them! What Sevilla doesn’t have is the Great Mosque of Córdoba, known (more accurately) as the Mosque–Cathedral of Córdoba. Started in the 9^th Century by the Moors who occupied Andalusia, it was added on to several times, and eventually was said to serve 100,000 worshipers. In 1236 the Reconquista, or retaking of Iberia by Christians, arrived in Córdoba, and the Spanish added a Renaissance cathedral nave right in the middle of the mosque.

Originally the minaret for the mosque, now a bell tower for the cathedral.

View from the tower. Note the bells...

The Cordoba cathedral, plunked down in the middle of (what was) the Cordoba mosque.

OK, so that’s the Wikipedia part. Paula, in an email to some friends, said I’d “work my magic” on the presentation of our visit. I find I can’t improve on what she said:

I don’t know why it took us three trips to Sevilla to finally get to Córdoba. It’s about an hour train ride from here. I had seen photos of the iconic red and white striped arches [of the mosque]. I was breathless and swept off my feet with the grandeur, magnificence and size of this Mosque Cathedral. Unlike the Alcazar here or the Alhambra in Granada, this Byzantine structure contains many styles of architecture from Roman to Gothic. It is beyond huge….Inside there are over 850 marble and jasper columns connected with arches. I felt like I was walking in a candy cane forest! It was the day before a Spanish holiday and we had the place mostly to ourselves.

The candy cane forest! Astonishing, really.

It’s been added on to by the Moorish rulers to the size of 180 by 130 meters (200 by 150 yards – a football field is 100 by 50 yards, so that’s six American football fields!) for the entire grounds of orange trees and Tower – which we climbed.

The Catholic altars and statutes outline the perimeters inside except for one wall that still has the Islamic and Arabic architecture including the center prayer niche (the Mihrab – ed.), with gold tiles, calligraphy and mosaics. And arches. Lots and lots of arches.

Not even this panorama can give a hint.

In the 800s Cordoba was the largest city in the world – larger than Damascus or Byzantium – with 300,000 people! That’s five 0s. London and Paris had a population of 20,000 each at the time.

 

Mirhab of the mosque

Transitioning from mosque to cathedral

Unlike the Alhambra or Alcazar, which were places for the rulers to live (aka palaces), this was a place of worship and prayer. I can only imagine what it sounded like with even 50,000 people inside praying together.

And, of course, we were not the first to find this structure extraordinary. The hall was described as having  "countless pillars like rows of palm trees in the oases of Syria”^[29] while the people living there found that "the beauty of the mosque was so dazzling that it defied any description."^[30]  I found the interior more impressive than the Blue Mosque in Istanbul (and yes, I was so dazzled I'm having trouble describing it, too!).

 

I like the black and white version also

The part that didn’t work for me so well was the insertion of a Christian cathedral into the middle of this enormous mosque. I found the Christian iconography out of place (plus, the 16^th Century Spanish had to slather gold and silver all over everything!). And, it turns out I was not alone in my dismay; no less a personage than the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (1500-1558), who had given permission for the construction of the cathedral, commented upon seeing it, "You have destroyed something unique to build something commonplace."^[38]  (My thoughts exactly!)

The Christian cathedral built entirely within the (former) mosque.

Of course, there’s more to Córdoba than the Mosque–Cathedral, but that was the reason we went. We did have a 20-minute walk from the train station, and found some other aspects of the city to admire.

View of the minaret -- bell tower from outside the walls

2nd Century Roman bridge (used as Long Bridge to Volantis in Game of Thrones)

View of the city walls and a very nice fountain!

Street art, outside an auto repair shop (!)